I'm a research assistant stationed on Gough Island in the South Atlantic Ocean. We are conducting research for the RSPB on birds living on the island. We will be here until late September or early October 2011. A map of the island can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/niclemaitre/5381019736/
Sunrise over the Admiral and the Midshipman sea stacks
These days I look for any excuse to get away from Base, it is becoming increasingly difficult to stay sane and stay in Base everyday. The last time that I managed to get out for more than a day was back in April when we visited the Glen. As I said last week, communicating with the outside world is what keeps me sane, so thank you all you Faithful Readers.
Clouds here on Gough are amazing
A while ago John Cooper asked that I visit the Giant Petrel colony on the center of the west coast of the island in order to count the number of adult bird overwintering there. They are quite worried that the Giant Petrels will feed on the mice carcasses during the eradication and suffer secondary poisoning. Which is why we had to establish how many were here during winter to determine how many may be at risk. I had tried to visit the colony two weeks past but had been forced to return to Base because of Prince. This time was different, I put my foot down and any thoughts that Robyn may have had of accompanying Michelle and I were quashed.
On "Dragon Ridge" above the GP colony
The planned trip was not all business and no pleasure, Michelle and I planned to do a circuit of the northern end of the island passing Barren Dome, Nigel's Cap and Expedition Peak before returning to Base. We arrived at the Giant Petrel colony in perfect weather, counted the birds and retired to the tent for supper. We then discovered the gas cylinder was almost empty, so after a dinner of cold Two Minute Noodles we turned in for the night. Sleeping at the GP colony is a task, the sheltered campsites all cling to the hillside and at best are big enough for one person. Michelle drew the short straw and got the downhill side of the tent, I got the flatter position on the uphill side. I must have slept because I remember waking up but it was a very long, very uncomfortable night.
The aptly named Saddle Island
No night at the GP colony would be complete without a storm and this night was no different, after about 2000, the wind began to blow and good grief, did it blow. At its worst it must have been between 60 and 80kts. The entire tent lifted as the wind crept under the edge of the fly. Fortunately we had pitched the tent behind a boulder which sheltered us from the worst of the wind, the full force of it, as it smashed into the tent like an express train, would have collapsed the tent and left us with a handful of tattered nylon.
Michelle chancing her hand with a GP
The next morning, the wind was still blowing a gale so we abandoned plans to see the rest of the island and decided to beat an ignominious retreat to Base. I can safely say that I have endured the worst conditions that the Cape has thrown at me, I have spent nights out in full storms in the Hex, rescued hikers in snow storms, dealt with horizontal hail on Table Mountain while looking for tourists, but I have never, ever, experienced wind like here. We simply could not walk. The route back from the GP's follows a ridgeline which caught the full force of the wind. At times it was impossible to walk, crawling was the only option. You had to time your movements along narrow sections of the ridge to coincide with lulls between the gusts, otherwise you would be small pieces scattered across the valley, far, far below. Exciting, exhilarating, yes. Would I do it again, no!
We survived, although at times it was truly touch and go, and made it back to Base after a long and tiring walk/crawl which tested my core muscles to their max. I really never ever want to experience that sort of wind again! Leonie (may she live forever and have all the blessings) had made us lunch, which was mana from heaven. Never has a toasted sarmie been appreciated so much.
A Giant Petrel
Sunset, the first one I have seen since the night before I arrived, the 14th of December...
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